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Bra Size and Fit

#1

This has been prompted by a couple of things that have cropped up this week and is so pertniant, to what we are about, that I felt it deserved a thread.
The incidents are all around one thing and that is the continued growth on the upper part of my chest. I tried a bra, which I had put to one side, as it was too large. The upper edge was cutting into my boobs, giving me the notorious 4 boob look- its definitely one for the charity shop. Today, because of the cold, I put on a body, with a built in bra. Despite being a band size bigger, than I normally wear, its fast heading for the same fate. I then tried another one, that I had put to one side, as I did not have enough boob, to fill the upper part of the cup; now it is in my every day bra drawer! All of this is without any apparent change to the lower parts of my boobs.
The moral of all of this is that there is a huge variation between the cups of bras, of the same nominal size and, unless you try before you buy, getting the right bra is very hit and miss.
If you go for a fitting, beware the lady with a tape measure, she will be lucky to get a genetic lady right, let alone a Trans Lady. A skilled bra fitter will know your size, by eye, alone. It is a sobering thought that the vast majority of British women wear the wrong sized bra; usualy too big a band and too small a cup.
So let's look at the factors, to bear in mind. Firstly, ignore the charts that tell you to add 4 or 5 inches to your under bust mearurement. That is designed to give the chest size, at its widest part, less breast tissue. As it assumes that all women have the same shaped rib cage, it is at best a rough and ready starting point; applied as a rule, it leads most women into wearing too big a band size. Women tend to have a rib cage that tapers in towards the waist, while men have one that is parallel. So, the best starting point is your under bust measurement.
The next thing, to realise, is that, cup size is not a constant; it increases with band size, quite dramaticaly. A 38 B cup, is designed to hold nearly as much breast tissue, as a 36C. The constant, is in the amount that the breasts stand out from the chest wall.
Lastly, we have to remember, that boobs come in a multitude of shapes, with different shapes requiring, different types of cup.
Armed with this knowledge, start at your underbust size and measure your size around the fullest part of your boobs. If you are 2 to 3 inches more try an A cup first, if 3 to 4 try a B.
You should start with an underwire bra, with a 3 piece, soft cup. Remember that the band on a new bra is quite tight; that will soon ease. If you can easily do it up on the tightest setting, it is probably too big, and you will soon be faced with shoulder straps that fall down, all the time.
Now to the cup; if it has wrinkles or creases, it is too big. A minimal amount is acceptable, if your boobs are still growing. If the top edge, with the straps fully adjusted, cuts into you boob the cup is too small. However, try a different bra, in the same size, before going up, or down a size, as it may just be that the cut of that particular bra does not suit the shape of your boobs, or it is a generously cut bra.
Now to the wires, these should sit flat, on your chest wall, if they don't, try a bigger band size. The mark, left by the wires, should perfectly encopass, your boobs. However, even here, we can hit a problem, which will only show up after an extended period of wear, if like me you have boobs that start from under your armpits. You may conclude on a band size and find that the ends of the wires chafe the side of your chest and that the remedy is a smaller band. If you are this shape, avoid bras that are cut away at the sides and balconette bras and when you put your bra on, pull the flesh, from your side, into the cup of your bra, to avoid overspill. Moral; don't buy too many bras at once, until you have resolved that issue.
As you can see, getting a bra that fits you is not straightforward, but well worth the effort
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#2

Thank you chrissiegirl.
You have answered many questions that I had on the subject of bra sizing for males. Most who wear will simply say to go in for a fitting. I have come across the adding 4 to 5 inches to the band size on most retail websites. Although One site did use the band size and the cup sizing chart you went over.

Thanks for sharing your info as I believe many men war the wrong size bra as well.

Andy
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#3

I have noticed that some band sizes seem to vary a bit also. I wear a 46A normally but a 48 is also comfortable. Watch out for bras from the far east. They have a lot smaller cups than USA bras - At least the ones I bought on Ebay did.
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